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The conversation
“De Bethune’s DB25 Perpetual with the anthracite is my ideal watch, but the case size is too big for my small wrists. Is there any other options?”
The story
———— Our client had ‘almost’ found the perfect watch – De Bethune’s DB25 Perpetual Calendar with its chic anthracite dial. The design, movement, and brand all ticked his boxes but there was one detail that could not be overlooked – he felt the case size was just too large for him. Between us, we came up with a plan to see if the DB25 could be re-created as a unique piece in a smaller size. The conversation went from ‘if only’ to ‘could we really?’ in a matter of minutes. We quickly sketched up what the dial could look like without the two apertures for the perpetual calendar and surprisingly, the balance felt even more honed overall.
Although De Bethune’s DB25 varying guises may look similarly sized, this model range is produced in 44mm, 42mm and – very rarely – a 40mm case size. We challenged De Bethune to replicate the 44mm DB25 that utilises the DB2324 calibre to fit their smallest 40mm case, a first for the brand. Over the course of 5 months, completely new calculations were made to re-imagine the watch’s proportions overall, recreating the 12-section hand-guillochéd anthracite dial exactly. To retain that important spherical moon- phase complication, De Bethune selected their DB2105v1 in-house calibre with its mirror polished Star Trek–inspired bridges, sleek power reserve detail and impeccable finishing.
A custom-length double-faced Alligator strap was the finishing touch on our client’s dream De Bethune watch. It’s one of a kind, and we like to think it’s the epitome of bespoke watchmaking.
About De Bethune watches
———— De Bethune’s maxim is “Not doing more, but instead doing better”, and it shows in their beguiling watches. Since the company’s launch in 2002 they have continued to employ cutting-edge technologies while taking inspiration from the great 18th century master watchmakers (in fact the company is named after the Chevalier de Bethune, a French nobleman credited with inventing an escapement mechanism for pocket watches and clocks in 1727). De Bethunes can now be seen on the wrists of celebrity watch fans like Robert Downey Jr and tennis star Gaël Monfils.
De Bethune is a collaboration between Denis Flageollet, a fourth- generation watchmaker and David Zanetta, a passionate collector. “The watch only makes sense today if it is a work of art,” says Zanetta, “innovation is the only meaning of the watchmaking métier today.” That spirit of innovation has driven them to incredible creativity – other watchmakers might content themselves with flat depictions of the moon, but 2009’s DW [Dream Watch)] 1 was the first watch to feature a 3D steel and palladium moon that appears to float below the dial. Unsurprisingly, a flurry of patents (such as floating lugs for extra strap comfort) come out of their base in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains every year.
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Brand:
De Bethune
Model:
DB25 - Piece Unique
Dial:
Bepsoke, anthracite
hand-guilloché in 12 radiating sectors
De Bethune star-studded sky
in black mirror-polished steel,
inlaid with yellow gold stars
Spherical moon phase in polished palladium
and blackened zirconium at 12 O’clock
Hands:
Hand-polished and curved steel
Movement:
Calibre DB2105V1 Mechanical hand-wound:
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a
self-regulating twin barrel
De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Spherical moon phase indication
accurate to a degree of
one lunar day every 122 years –
De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 29
Functions:
Hours and Minutes and moon phase
Case:
ø 40mm white gold
Crystal:
Sapphire front and back
(1800 Vickers hardness)
with double anti-reflective coating
Strap:
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Pin buckle in white gold
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In the making
Doing the math:
To maintain proportions the bespoke dial and movement were re-calculated
The spherical moonphase:
This process requires heating, cooling, and perfect timing to achieve the hue of the darker side of the moon.
Calibre and creativity:
To fit the smaller 40mm case De Bethune selected the DB2105V1 calibre with its spherical moonphase complication, a key feature of the dial
The perfect dial
Our fully bespoke 12-part guilloche anthracite dial being inserted onto the movement that will fit the perfectly sized 40mm case
The curved hands
Polished steel is hand rolled to form a curve that gives clearance for the spherical moon phase
Signed and sealed
The rubber seal is delicately place before the white gold bezel is secured
The case back
With the mirror-polished bridges in place the sapphire case back is secured
A final debrief at the atelier
As with most of our projects, Convopiece founder Adrian Aldred gets an overview of the finder details and final sign off with De Bethune master watchmaker Jeremy.
Inspired? Select another bespoke story below
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