The conversation
“The independent watchmaker brands interest me, I’d like a unique piece by one of the most revered.”
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The story
———— This VIP Patek collector desired exclusivity and the ultimate in independent haute horology. Our goal was to educate and exceed expectations. A curated edit document was presented at which we discussed at length the virtues of each watchmaker.
This was not about action or performance over the past five years, this was design cues, movements and those details that give certain watchmakers that cache. We decided the Kari Voutilainen GMT-6 was most-suited to his requirements.
Our relationship with Kari meant unrestricted access to his library of past bespoke designs from which we drew inspiration for the design direction of the dial. A ‘deep space’ theme appealed but we had to draw a new arrangement that suited the balance between dynamics and elegance better. Instead of ‘Swiss Made’, Kari’s watches are labelled ‘handmade’. The dial alone requires three artisans, five processes and takes almost three weeks to produce. The in-house movement represents the pinnacle of fine watchmaking in terms of finishing and performance and construction.
About Kari Voutilainen watches
———— Leading watch blog Hodinkee described Kari Voutilainen as being “one of a small handful of independent watchmakers considered to be at the pinnacle of watchmaking today” and we totally agree.
The Finnish watchmaker currently resides in Môtiers, Switzerland. His watchmaking career began at the private Finnish School of Watchmaking. He then trained at the renown WOSTEP school of watchmaking which he went on to teach there himself. 2002 saw his independent brand launch and he’s raised the bar ever since. There are many articles on his journey, this one we particularly like here
Outragously talented, yet inspiringly humble. Kari is renown for stunning guilloché dials, exceptional movements and impeccable finishing. The magic lies in his ability to offer a huge array of complications and bespoke piece unique’s whilst retaining his signature design codes.
Balancing totally unique executions whilst maintaining a clear brand identity is hard to achieve, even for much larger brands, Kari Voutilainen thrives in this realm. Two examples of this are the intricate Japanese lacquered dial of the Voutilainen Aki No Kure. In contrast, his 2019 28ti Inverse has an ‘inverted’ movement that showcases the balance wheel and escapement on dial side, a completely different feel and occasion.
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Brand:
Kari Voutilainen
Model:
GMT-6
Movement:
Design and manufactured,
in-housefrom rhodium plated,
German silver
New direct impulse escapement,
with two escapement wheels.
Free sprung balance (with Grossman,
interior curve and Philips exterior curve,
beating at 18,000 vph.)
Bridges in Côtes de Genève finish
Wheels in rose gold
ø 13.60mm balance wheel
ø 30.00mm x 5.6 mm
Functions:
Hours and minutes
GMT function at 6
Case:
ø 39mm
5N rose gold
Crystal:
Sapphire front and back
Dial:
Solid silver, engine turned by hand
’Deep space theme’ engraved by hand
Applied rose gold hour numerals
Blue enamel
Hands:
Hand made
Blued steel and 5N rose gold
Strap:
Blue custom length alligator strap
18k 5N rose gold buckle
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In the making
The first sketch:
Convopiece founder Adrian Aldred sketched this ‘space inspired’ dial theme for Kari.
The unfinished silver dial
Our sketch is realised as a spectacular hand engraving, with holes for the all the applied elements.
Beneath the dial
Early stages show beautiful circular perlage finishing applied to movement mainplate.
Rear of the movement
An extremely rare sight of the unfinished bridges without the balance wheel and escapement in place.
Inspired? Select another bespoke story below
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